Monday, July 11, 2011

Crispy Rolls - Chả Giò

Crispy Rolls (not to be mistaken with Spring Rolls) or Chả Giò, is a uniquely Vietnamese delicacy, not to be confused with Chinese Egg Rolls because the two items truly have nothing in common.

Done correctly, Chả Giò is served only at the most important meals because it take time to prepare these delicate, refined, and tasty rolls properly. But the result is well worth the effort.

Below is our family secret recipe, which has been converted to ingredients found in the United States, or outside of Vietnam.

The basic ingredient is minced pork, to which either prawns or crab can be added for savory flavor. The gossamer thin bang trang (rice paper) is hard to handle.

Ingredients:

2 oz translucent rice vermicelli or cellophane noodles, chopped
2 tbsp dried tree ears (wood fungus or wood ears), soaked until soft and chopped
3 Chinese mushroom caps, soaked until soft and chopped
6 oz minced pork
4 oz water chestnuts, chopped
2 stalks spring onions, chopped
2 tbsp nuoc mam (fish sauce)
1 tsp pepper
1 egg, lightly beaten
12-14 sheets banh tranhg
vegetable oil for deep frying
cornstarch (optional)

Put all ingredients except skins or rice paper in a large mixing bowl and blend well.
Adding a tablespoon of cornstarch will give the mixture a smooth texture, but this is optional. To adjust seasoning, boil a small nugget of mixture and taste. Adjust seasoning if necessary. In a bowl of tepid water gently lower each sheet of bang tranhg or spring roll skin until soft and shake off excess water. Very carefully, lay sheets on a clean chopping board. Place a heaped tablespoon of mixture on sheet or skin, roll over once, and fold in sides. Roll over once more and tuck in firmly, patting the ends down. Finish making rolls as oil heats in the wok. Gently lower each roll in the oil to deep fry—a few at a time until light brown and crisp. Serve with fresh lettuce and mint leaves with nuoc cham.

Friday, July 31, 2009

About

When a person has this nagging need to write about something that she cares passionately about, what does she do? She started a blog! That's right.

All my life, I have wanted to write. And as young as I can remember, loved to watch my mom cooks, to be around and helped her in the kitchen, absorbing the wonderful cooking aroma while listening to her explain the need for complementary as well as contrasting ingredients, the cooking techniques, what gives each dish its distinct characteristics, and most importantly, why she thinks Vietnamese cuisine is one of the best and healthiest in the world. Of course, I remembered thinking at the time that my mom was "prejudice."

I was the oldest of eight children. In our family, dinners were happy times, although I did not know the importance of family meals at the time, nor did I know that for me, meal times with family, and happy moments with my mom in the kitchen, will quickly came to an end.

Like many others who fled Vietnam at the end of April, 1975. I was unprepared to be uprooted, and be so far away from Vietnam, from my family, my school, my friends, and threw into a different world, at such a young age.

To shove away the loneliness and fears of being in a completely strange environment, I clung to every shed of childhood memories. Not surprisingly, food, especially home prepared food, gave me comforts beyond expectations.

To feel close to my family, my siblings, and to keep the memories of the time with my mom in the kitchen alive, I gradually perfected every and all recipes that my mom taught me from the tender age of 6. And in the process, I discovered another thing: When you finally found something that you could not stop doing, it really does make a difference.

Naturally, Vietnamese food is my favorite food. But it is only after I have been able to travel to many different parts of the world, sampled and compared a variety of ethnic food from different countries, even learned how to cook a few non-Vietnamese dishes to perfection, that I finally realized that when saying "Vietnamese cuisine is one of the bests", perhaps my mom had a point.

My mom was considered by many to be a very accomplished chef. With only hired hands, she single-handedly managed the wedding party of my younger sister (in Vietnam) serving more than 500 guests, many of them went away proclaiming that the food they enjoyed were the best they ever had.

In writing this blog, my goal is very modest.

First of all, I hope that in it, you will find some important but often overlooked information about Vietnamese cuisine. For examples, there will be explanation about our ingredients, the importance of contrasting texture and complementary tastes, the fundamentals about what types of dishes combined well with and complements each other. You will also understand what a typical Vietnamese family meal consists of, our cooking methods, the tools that we use, our dining customs, family meal traditions, why we eat what we eat on what occasions, and the meaning of some special dishes.

In Việt Flavors, you will not find the most number of recipes from Vietnam. In fact, compared to other websites, Việt Flavors probably has much fewer recipes. But all recipes that we listed here have been around in my family, have been adapted to cooking methods and using ingredients you can easily find in most places outside of Vietnam.

Each recipe will be written in the spirit of sharing sacred family recipes among close friends. I will share what I know, and hopefully I will be able to learn from other Vietnamese food enthusiasts out there also.

To good times and good food!

Tina Hà Giang

Equipment & Utensils used in Vietnamese cuisine

Chopsticks - The Vietnamese cook uses a long pair of bamboo chopsticks for stirring and cooking, never the stirrer or spatula that the Chinese cook uses for stir-frying. Standard-size bamboo chopsticks are used for beating, turning, and mixing.

Bowl and Chopsticks are common in Vietnam as well as some other Asian countries like China, Korean, Japan... However, in Vietnam they are something more than their physic.
Chopsticks are simple sticks. They could be bamboo, wooden, silver or whatever as long as they are straight and have the same spanned length. Chopsticks both lengthen the reach to all people sitting around the serving tray and cover all the tasks as dig up the pot of cooked rice, pick up and split up food to pieces, stir vegetable soup or dipping sauce

A single chopstick won't work until there is its partner. That's why a pair of chopsticks is a symbol for a couple. In the old days, a broken pair omens an unhappy ending marriage while differences between husband and wife about their social standings, family background were compared with a pair of odd chopsticks or moldy ones put on a red lacquered serving tray.
In restaurants, western serving set is usually used but only for western or other normal foods. An original Vietnamese meal with chopsticks may be much better to take people's fancies.
Chopsticks, actually, are typical for wet rice agriculture and become a part in Vietnamese immaterial culture.

There are a variety of steamers on the market, but the most convenient and conventional option is a pair of pots - one having a perforated bottom and lid.

Bamboo Steamer
Bamboo Steamer is a three piece set with two stacking bamboo steamer baskets and a lid for steaming different foods at each level. Use these steamer baskets in a wok or set atop a stock pot. The Steamer measures 10" in diameter and 6" high.

Wok

An all-purpose cooking tool that distributes heat evenly, it is perfect for stir-frying, deep-frying and steaming. The best, and most economical choice, is a 14-inch wok made from uncoated carbon steel.

The wok is a masterful invention of the Chinese. It is used throughout China and Southeast Asia. The Mohr Khang as it is called in Thai and Lao, has such great utility that no kitchen is without one. In it we can boil, stir fry, steam, braise, or deep fry. If you decide to make an investment in any piece of kitchen equipment, the wok is the single most versatile piece of equipment on which you cannot afford to skimp.

The very best woks are made from carbon steel and in truth are very inexpensive. Carbon steel retains the heat and evenly distributes it throughout the cooking surface. A good size for a normal kitchen is 24 inches across the widest part of the rim. In the restaurant we use 32 inch and 42 inch woks and we always have one or two extras in reserve. The down side of the carbon steel wok is that it is not pretty when it has been used. It discolors the very first time it is used and as I'll discuss a bit later it does require special preparation for the first time use.

Stainless steel is easier to clean and tends to look nicer after use. However I personally recommend that you never, never buy a stainless steel wok and expect to achieve the same results as when using a carbon steel wok. The surface of stainless steel is so smooth that the oil used for cooking will not remain on the side surfaces long enough to properly seal the ingredients you are cooking. While attractive and easy to clean, stainless steel simply will not yield the proper results

Wok with 2 convenient handles, rounded lid with wood knob, and bamboo spatula. Perfect for stir-frying. Heavyweight carbon steel for fast, efficient heating. Now day, Wok has an improved non-stick interior and exterior for low-fat cooking and easy clean up.

Seasoning the wok for first time use
The first thing you need to do before using your new carbon steel wok is to season it. Stainless steel woks do not require seasoning. The seasoning process is accomplished quite simply by first placing a cupful of vegetable into the wok and stirring it around so that it covers all exposed inside areas while your burner is at its highest setting. When the oil begins to smoke remove the wok from the burner and dump the oil into an old discarded coffee can. When the wok has cooled down slightly take a soft cloth and wipe out any remaining oil. Be very careful not to burn yourself, as the hot oil is easily absorbed into the cloth. Let the wok cool to room temperature and use paper towels to remove any excess oil. The wok is now seasoned and ready for service.

Never, I repeat never, use a scouring pad or scouring powder to clean your wok. If you do, you will need to repeat the seasoning process. To clean your wok between uses simply use lukewarm water and a sponge or a soft bristled brush similar to the one show at the right. Food will not stick to a properly seasoned wok. In the restaurant, we use a bristle brush between dishes to remove any debris in the wok. When we want to give them a thorough work over we literally burn the wok and re-season them.

A good quality Wok and associated utensils should last a lifetime in the average home environment. In the restaurant, the average useful life of the wok is about one year. Keep in mind that we prepare in one day what the average home cook would prepare in a year.

Other wok associated utensil include a cover, and perhaps an aluminum or bamboo steamer. These are not necessary items but they do extend the utility of the basic wok. If you purchase a steamer with its own cover you will not need to purchase a separate wok cover. Make sure that the steamer setup you do purchase is large enough so that when it is placed into the wok you will be able to add at least three inches of water without the water coming through the holes in the steamer. Most steamers are multi-level. In one level you can cook a steamed fish dish and in an upper level steamed vegetables.

Spatula

A long-handled instrument that will keep the food in motion while stir-frying. The Chinese invented this form of spatula. It is used in conjunction with the ladle (left image). The right handed Chef uses the Spatula in the right hand and the Ladle in the left hand to quickly toss and turn the ingredients in the wok.

A good quality spatula and ladle are made from stainless and have some weight to them. They are generally of the same length and have wooden handles to insulate them from the heat generated in the wok from eventually reaching your hands.

The Thai word for the spatula is Daliew and the ladle is called a Jong.

Ladle or Large Serving Spoon

A shallow, bowl shaped instrument with a long handle. Great for removing food and sauces from woks.

Wok Skimmer

This wok skimmers will help you drain food from hot oil or boiling water. Both wok skimmers feature wooden handle and the brass mesh bowls. The large wok skimmer is 15.5 inches long and the brass mesh bowl is 6 inches in diameter. The small wok skimmer is 12 inches long and the brass mesh bowl is 4 inches in diameter.

Tongs

A traditional pair of tongs will work well for removing fried foods from hot oil.

Bamboo Brush

Pieces of bamboo provide a gentle scour to clean your carbon steel wok.

Kitchen Cleaver

A large, heavy knife, about eight inches long and four inches wide. It will come in handy when chopping meat.
Traditional Asian cleaver design. High-carbon stainless steel blade. Comfortable, round hardwood handle. Perfect balance and weight. For slicing. For Chopping.

Meat Cleaver
I prefer a meat cleaver over American knives when slicing, dicing, chopping and mincing ingredients for Asian cuisine. The cleaver is useful for smashing garlic, disjointing chickens and yet sharp enough for making the most delicate cut. My home cleaver is of the type found in most well stocked Chinese grocery stores that handle utensils as well as food ingredients. I keep my cleaver razor sharp by first honing it with a honing stone and running it against a butchers steel once or twice. A sharp knife or cleaver is much safer than a dull one and cutting is effortless. Cleavers come in many sizes and weights. A good size for home use (and for the Restaurant) is one that measures 7" from the tip of the blade to the end of the blade by 3.5" broadside. The cutting portion of the blade itself should be slightly curved so that when you rock the blade over the food it will make a clean cut.

Kitchen Knife

Extra sharp all-purpose knife. Traditional Asian cleaver design. High-carbon stainless steel blade. Comfortable, round hardwood handle. Perfect balance and weight. For slicing.

Knife

Steel blade. Traditional wood handle. Perfect for slicing & pealing fish, seafood, fruit and other ingredients.

Chopping Boards and Cutting Boards

I prefer a wood chopping block over plastic. Plastic is too hard on the cutting edge of your cutting tools. In the restaurant we use chopping boards made from a special compound which has a feel of rubber to it. After excessive use we simply discard them and purchase new ones. Whether you use wood or plastic, you will need to scrub it with a brush between uses and sanitize it with Clorox (see below Special Notes on Sanitizing). After excessive use, you can resurface a wood board by simply sanding it to remove knife scars. Plastic boards with deep scars are best discarded. The Lao word for a cutting board is "giang'.

Rice Cooker

Thermostat for Precision Control
A built-in thermostat maintains heat at a precise and uniform level , virtually eliminating burning or overcooking of the rice. As a result, rice is cooked to the Chef’s preference.

Easy Push-Button Operation
The push of a button starts the rice cooking. As soon as the rice is cooked, the unit shuts itself off.

Keep Warm Feature
After food is cooked, unit automatically holds the temperature at a HACCP friendly 165F+.

Alternate Uses
Not only does it cook rice but can braise, heat liquids and cook many different items.

Charcoal Stoves or Barbecues -We use this for all cooking in Vietnam-barbecuing, simmering, boiling.

Blender - For pulverizing seeds, mixing batters, making coconut milk, and so forth.

Carrot Peeler -We are all familiar with the swivel-action peelers. On our recipes we use this peeler for cutting paper-thin slice of vegetables, usually carrots for Carrot Salad, and other recipes. In Vietnam, we have another peeler, very similar in design to the carrot peeler although a bit cruder in construction. It has a wider blade, which makes it possible to cut a much wider strip, and it is also made of a much heavier metal.

Electric Rice Cooker - Although this is not an essential piece of equipment, most Oriental kitchens that boast electricity do have an electric rice cooker. It provides the cook with an extra burner, and there is no need to watch the pot. Simply put the right amount of rice and water into the cooker, press a button, and lo and behold in half an hour the rice is ready, and perfect. Some rice cookers come with thermostats that will keep the rice hot for up to 5 hours.

Food Processors - In Vietnam, the many pates are purchased ready made from special stores. Vietnames abroad have now discovered that the pates they miss so much can be prepared with the food processor.

Knives - Preparation of food for any cuisine requires the use of several sharp knives of the best quality one can affored. Good equipment w3ill last a lifetime with proper care. A good French chef's knife or a standard-weight number 3 Chinese cleaver are especially suitable for cutting meat and vegetables; they are not recommended for cutting through bones. We recommend a heavy number 3 Chinese cleaver for cutting through poultry and fish bones. Also of great convenience is a boning knife, for removing bones from chicken parts, whole poultry, or meat. Many cooks recommend carbon-steel knives. While such knives do hold a sharp edge longer, they have the disadvantage of discoloring certain ingredients (e.g., onion) and rusting if not carefully dried. Stainless steel is very hard and almost impossible to sharpen. However, Henckels and some other knife makers produce a no-stain high-carbon-stell blade, including a Chinese-style cleaver, which eliminates the disadvantage of carbon steel.

Mortar and Pestle - For pounding garlic in making nước chấm or pounding meat or shrimp. For nước chấm, a normal-sized ceramic or stone mortar and pestle are required. For pounding meat or shrimp, a heavier, larger stone mortar and pestle are needed. However, in many recipes, food processors can be satisfactory work-saving substitutes.

Note: While at first glance it may not seem that there is a difference between using a food blender and using a mortar and pestle, there actually is a significant difference in the resultant taste of the dish.

For example, a food blender set to puree does not produce the same result as a mortar and pestle when crushing garlic or chili peppers. The object of the mortar and pestle is to extract the oil or juices from the chili and to pulverize the fibrous cells of the pepper. At most, a food blender just gives you smaller pieces of the same chili.

Mortars and pestles come in different sizes and are made from different materials. An apothecary mortar and pestle is generally made from a ceramic and for home use they are quite adequate even though a bit smallish. Most any well stocked Southeast Asian grocery store have imported versions made from glazed baked clay or stone.

Be sure to keep your mortar and pestle clean by sanitizing them as outlined below. From time to time inspect it for cracks. Cracks are easily detected by holding the morter by its base and tapping the rim. If the sound is clear as a bell and not muffled it most likely has no cracks. If it develops a crack, discard it and purchase a new one. Food particles can easily remain in the finest of cracks and have the potential of breeding food borne germs. Besides, a good mortar and pestle imported from Thailand, are relatively inexpensive items, costing about $10.00.





Steamer - An authentic Vietnamese steamer is made of metal, usually aluminum. It consists of a pot in which water is boiled and at least two more metal inserts (restaurant steamers usually have five) that fit directly on the lower pot of water, one above the other. These inserts are perforated, allowing wet steam to circulate frelly through them, enabling either a large quantity of one food or several different foods to be cooked at the same time. You can improvise a steamer by placing the bowl of food to be steamed in a large pot or roasting pan, making sure the sides of the bowl are high enough so the water comes halfway up. You can then cover the steamer and proceed with the recipe. If the bowl with the food is too shallow and you are afraid water to going to spill over into it, if would be best to place a rack with feet about 2 inches in height into the pan and then rest your dish on that. Steamers and racks can be purchased in Oriental grocery stores.


Thursday, July 30, 2009

Vegetables used in Vietnamese cuisine


Asian basil (rau quế) -This tropical anise-flavored basil, with purple stems and flowers, is available only at Vietnamese and Thai markets. Also known as Thai basil, this herb is exceptionally flavorful. It is a prerequisite for flavoring Pho, a famous beef and noodle soup. Purple basil or regular sweet basil can be used to substitute but the taste will not be the same.




Asian eggplant (cà tím) -Also known as Chinese eggplant, this long, thin, seedless lavender variety has a sweet flavor and no hint of bitterness. Small firm ones are considered the best. Unlike Western eggplant, they do not require peeling, salting or rinsing.




Bamboo shoots (măng) - Bamboo shoots (mang) Bamboo shoots fall into 2 categories: winter and spring. Winter shoots are best ("Ma Ling" or "Companion" brand preferred); they are dug up from the cracked earth before the shoots grow to any great length or size, making them extra-tender and tasty.

Spring shoots are larger and more stringy. In Asian markets, look for bamboo shoots that are kept in large plastic tubs; although they are also processed, they do not have a tinned taste (like the canned ones). Pickled or "sour" bamboo shoots (mang chua) are fresh shoots preserved in brine. They are sold shredded or sliced in vacuum-packed plastic bags. Use for stir-fries and hearty soups.


Banana leaves (lá chuối) - In Vietnam, banana leaves are used to wrap foods for steaming or to enfold food for carrying. The food is served in the leaf, but the leaf is not eaten. It is sold fresh or frozen in 1-pound packages in Latin American and Asian markets. To use, thaw (if the leaves are frozen), then dip the leaves briefly in boiling water to make them pliable. Usually, an overwrapping of foil is necessary to prevent water from seeping into the food. Store unprepared leaves in the freezer. Substitute Ti leaves (available fresh at florists) or foil.

Bean curd/tofu (đậu hũ) -Known in the U.S. as tofu, the pressed bean curd of the soybean has all the essential amino acids, is low in calories and is totally without cholesterol. It is flavorless but blends beautifully with other ingredients.

You can do absolutely anything with bean curd: deep-fry, saute, steam, bake, simmer, broil, or puree. In comes in 3 textures: soft-added to soups or steamed dishes where cooking times is brief; semisoft-used in stir-fries; and firm-for stuffing and deep-frying. If bean curd is not to be used the same day, it should be put in a container with water to cover and then refrigerated. Replace the water each day. Cared for in this way, bean curd will keep for a week or longer. It is abailable in supermarkets or Oriental markets.

Bean sprouts (gía) - Mung bean sprouts, the most widely available variety, can be found almost anywhere. Never use canned bean sprouts; they don't have the crunchy texture that is their main characteristic. You can also grow your own from dried mung beans. They are eaten raw, added to soups or stir-fried. They will keep, covered with water, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. In preparing fresh bean sprouts, keep in mind that they are mostly water. When stir-frying bean sprouts, do it quickly over very high heat, or they will release water and thin out the sauce.

Bok Choy
- Also known as "Chinese cabbage," this is a very mild vegetable, actually a member of the Swiss chard family. It has an elongated shape and very white stems with dark green leaves. Its construction is similar to that of celery.




Carambola (khế)
-Also called star fruit, carambola is a deeply ribbed, yellow-green tropical fruit that is ovoid in shape. Sliced, it yields star-shaped pieces that are beautiful for garnishing. Traditionally, the unripe, sour fruit is eaten raw in salads. In seasoning soups, it may replace tamarind.




Chiles (ớt)
-
Vietnamese cooks use two basic varieties of chiles. First, there's the large, elongated red or green chile, resembling the Italian pickling pepper. It is mildly hot and used sliced or whole, for garnishing. It is available in Asian markets, Caribbean greengrocers and some supermarkets.

The second type is a tiny, fiery hot pepper called "bird" pepper, used for seasoning. Usually, these green and red chiles are mixed in small plastic bags and sold in Vietnames and Thai markets. Refrigerate or freeze, wrapped in a plastic bag. Substitute fresh cayenne peppers or serrano chile pepper, the kind used in Mexican salsas.




Chinese cabbage, flowering (cải xanh)-Distinguished by its yellow flowers and by its firm, small-steammed stalks and crisp green leaves, this variety is considered the best Chinese cabbages and is much prized by Vietnamese cooks. The taste is pleasant and mild and the texture tender but crsip. The stems must be peeled. Substitute Italian broccoli rabe (rapini).



Mustard Greens - (Cải muối dưa) - Also known as mustard greens, this vegetable resembles head lettuce in size and shape but differs in that the leaves wrapping the heart are thick stalks. This variety has a particulary sharp flavor, adding a wonderful clean taste when combined with other ingredients. However, after parboiling, the stalks become tender and succulent and the assertive flavor gets milder. Cut the stems into strips before cooking. Pickle or "sour" mustard greens (cai chua) are the young tender hearts of mustard green cabbage preserved in brine. They are sold vacuum-packed in plastic bags. Use for stir-fries and soups.
Chinese chives (hẹ) - These ling, flat green chives resemble large blades of grass. The flavor is reminiscent of garlic as well as onion. They are a common ingredient of Vietnames Vegetable Platter and Fresh Spring Rolls. They may be used as you would Western chives. Chinese chives are sold by the bunch. Refrigerate, wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to 3 days.

Chinese flowering chives (hoa hẹ) - These are the thin, stiff flowering stems from Chinese chives. They are distinguished by a single, conical bulb at the tip of each stem. Sold fresh by the bunch, the stalks are tender and mild to eat. Select young stems with small, hard, tight flower heads; those with open flowers are considered fibrous and too old to eat. Refrigerate, wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to 3 or 4 days. Cut the flower and stem into 2-inch lenghts and discard the bottom inch or so. Use in soups, salads, stir-fries or wherever an onion flavor is desired.

Chinese kale/broccoli (cải làn)-This vegetable is distinguished from the other cabbages by clusters of white flowers and white haze on the leaves. It has smooth, round stems that are tender, succulent and flavorful. The stems must be peeled. Stir-frying enhances most of the good points of this vegetable. Substutute Western kale.



Daikon (củ cải trắng)
-Also known as Oriental white radish, this root is distinguished by its large cylindrical size (similar to a carrot), with smooth skin and whitish color. The flesh is crisp, juicy and mildly pungent and absorbs the flavors of soups and stew. It is also consumed raw in salads or pickled. Substiute white turnip.



Jicama (củ đậu) - Jicama is a brown-skinned root vegetable resembling a turnip. The crisp, delicious white flesh tastes like a cross between a juicy pear, a crunchy water chestnut and a starchy potato. It must be peeled and may be eaten raw in salads or cooked. Jicama is available in Southeast Asian and Caribbean greengrocers as well as many supermarkets.



Lemon grass (xả) - Also called citronella root, lemon grass is an aromatic tropical grass that characterizes Vietnames and Thai cuisine. Only the bulb-like base of the stalk is used to impart a compelling balm-like flavor to food. It isn't always available fresh, so when you find some, but a few bunches. Cut the bulb portion up to the place where the leaves begin to branch, discarding the loose leaves. Freeze, wrapped in a plastic bag. When needed, peel off a layer of the tough outer leaves to disclose a white underlayer; crush lightly before slicing of chopping to release more flavor. Dried lemon grass is lemon grass that has been shredded and dried. Soak in warm water for 1 hour and then chop before adding to recipes.

Lily buds (hoa hiên/kim châm) -Also called "golden needles," these are the buds of a special type of lily (Hemerocallis fulva). The pale gold, 2-3-inch-long dried buds are often used in combination with tree ears and cellophane noodles to add texture to stir-fries, soups and stuffings. Soak them in warm water for 30 minutes, then remove the hard stems before cooking.


Long beans (đậu đũa) - As the name suggests, these beans can measure up to 2 feet in length. They are called "chopstick beans" in Vietnamese. These long beans are the immature pods of dry black-eyed peas. Select thin, dark, firm pods; the smaller the pods, the younger and more tender they are. They are available from Chinese greengrocers or at some Caribbean markets in the autumn. This vegetable is mostly enjoyed for its crunchy texture. Wash and cut into 2-inch lengths. Substitute string beans or tiny French green beans (haricots verts).




Lotus seeds (hạt sen) -These seeds of the lotus plant resemble large, round peanuts. In Vietnam, where very fresh, young lotus seeds are available, they are eaten raw, used in stews, soups (especially in vegetarian cooking) and sweet confections. They also may be mashed into a paste and used as filling for Moon Cakes. Canned and dried lotus seeds are sold in Chinese markets. Canned lotus seeds need no preparation, while the dried ones must be soaked in water overnight and then boiled until tender.


Mung beans, yellow (đậu xanh)
-Green mung beans are normally used to grow bean sprouts. Husked, green mung beans become yellow mung beans. Yellow mung beans are often used in preparing starchy dishes and sweets. They are sold in Asian and Indian markets as "peeled split mung beans. "Look for "Cock" or "Summit" brand.

Mushrooms, Chinese black mushroom (nấm hương, nấm đông cô) -These dried mushrooms are sold in 8-ounce packages at Oriental markets. They are expensive but highly esteemed for their distinct, robust flavor and succulent texture. These are different varieties but the best are fah goo (in Chinese): They have thick caps, 1 to 2-inches in diameter, and are light brown in color with prominent white cracks on their suface. Generally, they are very fragrant. Dried mushrooms require soaking. Strain and save the soaking liquid to add flavor to stocks and sauces. Though fresh or dried Japanese shiitake mushrooms are not as flavorful, they may replace Chinese mushrooms.

Mushrooms, straw (nấm rơm) - Attractive umbrella-shaped caps with a yellowish brown color distinguish these milk-flavored mushrooms. They are also know as "paddy straw" mushrooms because they grow on straw and rice husks. Considered a delicacy, they are added to soups and stir-fries. Straw mushrooms are available "peeled," in cans, at most Asian markets and at some supermarkets. Substitute canned button mushrooms.


Mushrooms, tree ears (nấm mèo/mộc nhĩ) -Also called cloud ears or wood ears. The "ear" designation of these black, chip-like fungi refers to their convoluted shape, reminiscent of a human ear. The best reee ear mushrooms are the very tiny, wrinkled and barklike speciments that often are mislabeled as "dried vegetables." When soaked in water, they expand to four or five times their original size and become jelly-like and translucent but stay crisp. They are mainly used to add texture to stir-fries, stuffings and vegetarian dishes.

Sugar cane (mía) - Sugar cane is a tall tropical grass, having a fat, jointed stalk resembling bamboo. It is cultivated widely in Vietnam as a food crop and as a source of sugar. The juicy yellow flesh is spingy and stringy. In Vietnam, the pressed juice from the canes is served as a soft drink in the summer. Mulled with ginger, it becomes a hot beverage for the winter. It is sold fresh at Caribbean greengrocers and Asian markets but is more readily available canned. Fresh sugar can requires peeling.



Tamarind (me chua) - Tamarind is a sour-tasting fruit with shelled pods that contain seeds. It is usually added in liquid form to flavor soups, and this is obtained by soaking and straining the pulp of the pod. The pulp is sold, soft-dried, in 8-ounce bloks. "Erawan" brand is excellent. Store in an airtight container at room temperature; it will keep indefinitely. Substitute lemon juice or vinegar with a tough of sugar.



Taro root (khoai môn)
- This oval-shaped tuber is distinguished by its brown, hairy skin with encircling ring. The flesh may vary from white to cream-colored, and is often speckled with purple. It tastes like bland potato with a very smooth, creamy texture. Vietnamese cooks use this starchy root the same way you would potato or sweet potato. Usually, small peeled chunks are steamed and added to a stew or sweet pudding.

Tropical mint (bạc-hà) - Of the numerous Asian mint species, the round-leafed mint, a tropical variety of spearmint, is the one most commonly used by Vietnames cooks. This fragrant herb is an integral part of Vietnamese salads, especially in the traditional Vegetable Platter. Refrigerate, wrapped in a moist paper towel, in a plastic bag.





Water spinach (rau muống) - This aquatic plant may be considered Vietnam's national vegetable. It is not a relative of the Western spinach but is used in much the same way. It thrives in swamps but grows equally well on dry land. It has hollow stems and light green arrowhead-shaped leaves. It is prized by Vietnamese cooks for its outstanding contrast in tewxture between crunchy stems and limp leaves with a mild taste like spinach, when cooked. It is sold by the bunch at Chinese and Vietnamese greengrocers. Soak in water and wash thoroughly before using. To use, cut into 2-inch lengths and discard the stalk's bottom inch or so. It is good for stir-fries and soups. The stalks may be finely shredded, soaked in cold water to curl and then added raw to salads. Substitute regular spinach.

How to use Rice Paper in wraps

Rice paper wrap is used intensively in Vietnamese cooking. It is made with rice, and is the thinnest wrap in the world.

Just about any type of cooked meats or seafood can be wrapped together with a combination of lettuce and fresh herbs into little rolls, and dipped into a light but tangy dipping sauce, and voila, we have a great meal.

Rice paper wrap comes dried in a package when you get it from the store. These wraps have been steamed previously and dried for easy storage.

In order to use these rice paper to wrap your food, you will first need to soak them in a bowl of warm water. Because wrapping food into rolls is a labor intensive activity, the cook normally cook the meats or seafood and and get the sauce, vegetables and fresh herbs ready, and dinners will make their own wraps. Eating wraps together is a social activity in family culture.

How to wrap:

1. Dip a single rice paper roll into the water for about one minute. Work with one paper at a time to prevent the rice paper from sticking together.


2. Remove the pliable rice paper wrap from the water and lay on a damp towel to rest for 30 seconds.



3. Place one to two tbsp. filling in a line down the center of the rice paper wrap.




4. Fold the bottom half of the rice paper up over the filling. Bring the two sides in and fold them over the filling.


5. Roll the rice paper up all the way to the top to close it. Spoon some water along the top seam of the rice paper to remoisten it to help it to seal if it has dried out.


6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 with the remaining filling and rice paper wraps. Store the rolls under a damp towel or refrigerate until ready to serve.

Prawns Steamed in Coconut


Intro:
This is an extremely easy to make appetizer that illustrates the lightness of Vietnamese food. The sweetness of shrimp combined with coconut juice is delicious on their own. No spice is needed. Excellent with beer!

Ingredients:
-2 large young coconuts
-1lb prawns (approx.)
-salt

What to Do:
Chop off the “caps” of the coconuts and drain the juice. Wash and drain prawns. Arrange prawns inside the coconuts. Boil coconut juice with a pinch of salt. Ladle juice back into coconuts to completely cover the prawns. Steam immediately over high heat for about 20-30 mins. Serve hot.

Note:
If fresh coconuts are not available, use frozen or canned coconut juice and steam in a bowl.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Vietnam Cooking and Culture

It is the abundant use of fresh herbs and vegetables that sets Vietnamese cuisine apart from those of its neighbors in Southeast Asia. Vietnamese food is a healthy mix of light and refreshing flavors with very little added fats.

The Vietnamese love to wrap parts of their meals in rice paper and lettuce leaves – grilled shrimp, grilled beef, stir-fried pork are all good candidates for the filling, although sometimes, only vegetables and herbs like mint, basil and cilantro are used. The spring roll, which has come to personify Vietnamese food, is, in fact, a favorite appetizer on most Vietnamese menus.

Lots of fresh herbs and vegetables

Fresh herbs and veggies such as bean sprouts are mandatory with the famous Vietnamese Pho (pronounced fir) or beef noodle soup. They can be added to the hot soup or munched fresh, it doesn’t really matter. Pho has been around for 100 years as a traditional breakfast dish but, nowadays, it is eaten all day long.

Vietnamese cuisine draws a lot from the Chinese, who ruled the country from 111 BC for 1,000 years and left behind their cooking methods of stir-frying, steaming, braising and stewing in clay pots.

The French, who were there for slightly less than a 100 years, bequeath the Vietnamese their baguette and also their pates, which the Vietnamese steam in banana leaves and localize with the addition of chilies and spring onions. Another great legacy of the French may have been the Pho, which some believe to have originated from the French beef stew, called the pot-au-feu.

Regional Cuisines

Regional cuisines in Vietnam vary. The colder Northern region is known for its hearty beefy stews. This is the area that was conquered by the Chinese in second century BC and where most of Vietnam’s ethnic groups live. Stewing is a popular style of cooking here – a similarity that it shares with the Chinese.

The Central region of Vietnam is the home of imperial cooking. With Hue, the ancient royal capital, located here it is not surprising that the food here is highly refined just like the former court chefs used to cook it, and well, fit for a king. Delicate portions are served in multiple courses.

Down South where it is more tropical, the cuisine borrows from those of neighboring Thailand, Cambodia and also Malaysia. Rich with fresh seafood, the food here shows a bit more of an Indian influence and is generously spiced with chilies, coconut milk and a variety of herbs and spices.

Fish Sauce

As with many other Southeast Asian countries, a meal is not to be had without fish sauce, called nứớc nắm in Vietnam. The locals combine their fish sauce with chopped chilies, garlic, sugar and lime juice, a concoction called nuoc nam cham, for a perfect balance of the sweet, salty, sour and spicy tastes. This is a favorite dipping sauce that is versatile enough to accompany practically any Vietnamese dish.

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